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iCHSTM 2013 Programme • Version 5.3.6, 27 July 2013 • ONLINE (includes late changes)
Index | Paper sessions timetable | Lunch and evening timetable | Main site |
地毯、挂毯手工编织技术起源、发展于中国少数民族地区,一直被定位为民族工艺。在进入西方的市场和文化圈后,被看作“一类有趣而珍贵的异国物品”、东方地毯、承载“他者”文化意义的符号,并持续地给予特殊关注。我们也一直将其作为自己“民族”的工艺,西方又作为“他者”民族的工艺。“民族性”是东西方对地毯、挂毯强调的一个点。那么,这里的“民族性”是如何体现的呢?我们以内蒙古地区的地毯、挂毯编织技术的发展历史为例,研究发现,在艺术的文化语境中地毯、挂毯手工技术的民族性也发生了变化,或者说,事实上,一直被称为“民族工艺”的这项技术在其发展中是走向“去民族性”的过程。
地毯、挂毯手工编织技术起源的民族性。最早出现在内蒙古少数民族地区,反映游牧民族的生活方式和观念。编织技术针对的是少数民族的需求,生产原料也来源于内蒙古的纯绵羊的春天和秋天的羊毛,弹性好,毛长,能够保证地毯、挂毯的质量。以后,由于改良羊的毛短且弯曲,开始从新疆、河北等地采购羊毛原料。从原料上也脱离了起源的民族地域性。在小作坊生产时期,本地区有充足的男性劳动力,50年代后,转化为女性织工,分布于周边的牧区、农区。地毯生产直接依赖于本地的劳动力优势,在这一点上将其称为民族性不如地方性更恰当些。
手工技艺和工艺的民族性。地毯、挂毯的手工编织从简单的生产过程发展成为复杂的生产技术体系。其中,区别于其他编织类型最关键的地毯打结方式是手工操作。与其他少数民族不同,内蒙古生产地毯采用倒“8”字马蹄扣打结扣的传统土耳其方式,这个传统手工编织方式一直采用着。在生产工艺方面研制出新的手段和工序。但20世纪50年代后,基本上不是直接对外销售而是接单生产,销往国外,设计和生产是根据国外消费者的文化、心理、观念、生活方式、习俗等的要求来研制新工艺。尽管从事于这一领域活动的各类人员,反复强调其民族性,根据我们的调查,其实,更多的是体现在管理者、设计者、生产者的感情、心态和立场上,将其作为民族工艺在经营着,保护着,传承着。近年来,新建的中国地毯小作坊,又将处于低谷或即将消失的地毯、挂毯手工编织技术复兴起来,地方政府也将其作为民族工艺在政策上给予扶持着。
其实,在生产理念、图案的设计,市场导向上走向去民族性过程。
设计图案的民族性。消费者对图案的要求是图案设计的前提。日本、俄罗斯、美国、英国等不同文化背景的消费者对色彩、图案有着不同的偏好,所以,设计者在在借鉴、吸收的过
关键词:文化 少数民族 地毯 手工技术 民族性
Carpets and tapestries, the hand-making products dated back to Chinese minority areas, have been positioned as a national process. While Chinese see them their own, Western think them other national items when entering the markets. Both Chinese and Western focus on the national character of the carpets. How the carpets reflect the national character? Take the example of the technology development of Inner Mongolia carpets to find out. As a result, the national character has changed much. Actually the known national craft has get away from its national character during development.
The hand-woven technical originated in the Chinese national character. They first appeared in Inner Mongolia. It is the minorities demand that urge the prosperity of the carpets. The raw material came from Inner Mongolia. The wool of the pure sheep here, which is famous for its elasticity and length .Later, due to the low quality of the wool, the raw materials transported from other places. So the materials get away from its original national character. This region had adequate male labor force. After 1950s, most of the labor force changed into female. The carpet production is directly depended on local labor advantage. At this point, it will be more appropriate to call local character than national character.
The national character of craftsmanship .The production systems of craftsmanship are changed from simple to complex. It is the manual operation that stands out among other types of carpet knotting. Inner Mongolia unique way of weaving had begun with a traditional Turkish invert eight word horseshoe buckle to knot. Later carpets were sold aboard by orders other than by sales. The design and production changed much. Many facts have shown that the national character matters much, if so, according to our survey, designers and producers’ ideas matter more. These help protect and develop the crafts. Recently the newly built workshops have helped rebuilt the disappearing enterprises with the help of the local government technology policy.
The designs of the national character. The consumer is the premise. Foreign countries have different preferences. In order to cater to their demand, the way of design is getting away from national character, too.